(2)
Waiting For The Big One
At 5:04 p.m. on October 17, 1989, while 62,000 spectators assembled in San Francisco's Candlestick Park for the World Series, the west side of the San Andreas Fault lurched northward and upward, violently shaking northern California for about 15 seconds. Within minutes, news of the quake had spread around the world. Suddenly, Bay Area residents faced much bigger problems than choosing between the Giants and the A's.
The Cypress Street section of Interstate 880 in Oakland collapsed. Downtown Santa Cruz was ravaged. An upper roadway span of the Bay Bridge fell. Many houses and apartment buildings in the Marina District of San Francisco were destroyed or damaged beyond repair. As this brochure goes to press, only two weeks after the quake, the death toll is estimated at 63 (plus 12 missing), major and minor injuries at more than 4,000, and property damage in the billions of dollars. Some 13,000 people were displaced from their dwellings by quake damage.
Bad as it was, this was not quite the great earthquake that Californians have long feared. For one thing, its epicenter was just west of Loma Prieta Mountain, some 10 miles northeast of Santa Cruz and 60 miles south of San Francisco. If the epicenter had been closer to the major urban areas, casualties and damage would have been considerably higher.
For another, the Loma Prieta Earthquake (as it is now being called by seismologists) rated around 7.0 on the Richter scale--a major but not a great earthquake. In contrast, the great San Francisco quake of 1906 is thought to have been about 8.3. The disastrous Mexico City quake of 1985 was measured at 8.1, and the Alaskan quake of 1984 registered 8.6.
On the Richter scale, every unit increase represents more than a thirtyfold increase in energy released. For example, an 8.0 quake is more than 30 times more powerful than a 7.0. (For more on the Richter scale, see Appendix I.)
With this in mind, and having lived through the 1989 quake, we can begin to imagine what a great earthquake might be like. The longer and stronger shaking would multiply the destruction many times over.* In urban areas thousands would die and tens of thousands would be seriously injured. Medical facilities, many of which would suffer damage themselves, would be overwhelmed.
A great earthquake would do what the 1989 quake did, only more so. It would interrupt communications and transportation for days, even weeks. It would break electric, gas, water, sewer, and telephone lines, topple radio and TV towers, weaken or bring down bridges and overpasses, and block roadways. Airports would be out of commission for days. For a while, foot and bicycle would probably be the only reliable means of transportation.
With communications disrupted and personnel scattered, authorities would be swamped by requests for emergency assistance. Federal, state, and local governments would probably be unable to help people with basic survival for some time.** In the meantime, you, your family, your friends, and your neighbors would be on your own.
*Experts have estimated that a great earthquake on the San Andreas fault in the San Francisco area would cause 3,000 to 11,000 deaths, 12,000 to 44,000 injuries, and $20 billion or more in damage. Casualties and damage would be less, though still extensive, in case of a great quake on the Hayward fault in the East Bay. Another estimate indicates that a great quake in southern California would kill from 3,000 to 14,000 people, injure 12,000 to 55,000 severely enough to require hospitalization, and cause $20 billion in damage.
**Even moderate shakes can cause extensive damage. Recent examples in California include the 1983 Coalinga quake (Richter 6.7) and two in the Los Angeles area: the San Fernando Valley quake of 1971 (6.4) and the Whittier quake of 1987 (5.9). The Whittier quake killed seven people, injured more that 100, damaged 10,000 buildings, and caused over $200 million in losses. A great 8.0 quake would be about 1,000 times more powerful than the Whittier quake and around 175 times as strong as the 1971 San Fernando quake.
(3)
What Can You Do?
Everyone hopes that a great earthquake won't strike. However, the question is not really whether it will happen, but when. The U.S. Geological Survey estimates that there is a 50-50 chance that a great quake will strike California in the next 30 years. Quakes are most likely in the known active seismic areas, but they occasionally occur in areas thought to be inactive. Previously unknown faults are still being discovered.
If a great quake strikes, it will be less disastrous if you are prepared. This booklet will help you plan what to do in advance and teach you how to react if it happens.
Before The Quake
Planning: Home, Family, Work, School
We need to make the places where we spend most of out lives---houses, apartments, workplaces, and schools---as safe as possible before the earthquake.
This brochure teaches you how to improve quake safety at home. You'll also find lists of essential supplies to store for the emergency and information on how some cities, towns, and neighborhoods have organized to cope with the quake.
Many of these suggestions about home safety, a family plan, and other topics can be adapted for schools, workplaces, businesses, and other organizations.
A family plan is important. If the quake comes on a weekday while your family is scattered, how will you reunite, or at least get in touch with each other? (Remember, transportation systems and telephone lines may be out of service.)
Economic considerations also require forethought. How will you deal with the temporary disruption of the banking system and of normal work? Private citizens, professionals, business people, and employees should all plan for the emergency. (See Appendix II for tips on these matters, and Appendix III on earthquake insurance.)
Making Sure Your Home Is Safe
Your most important task: to make your home or apartment as safe as possible.
Site and Structure
Carry out a structural analysis of your home or apartment, consulting experts if necessary, and make necessary repairs or alterations. Survey the building's exterior and grounds for hazards.
Interior
Conduct a room-by-room examination of the interior for non-structural hazards, to determine what furniture or objects might fall or break. Then take corrective action.
Supplies
Collect and store emergency supplies for home, car, workplace.
Family Plan
Draw up a Family Plan for what to do if the quake occurs while some or all of you are away from home: how to get in touch with each other and reunite, and what to do if you can't get in touch or return to your home. Practice emergency drills. (See the last page of this brochure for a Family Plan Checklist.)
(4)
Site and Structure
The single most important thing you can do to prepare for an earthquake is to make sure your home is structurally sound and well sited.
Whether your home is old, new, or yet to be built, don't hesitate to get the expert help of structural and soil engineers. Look under "Engineers" in the Yellow Pages, contact a local engineering society, or ask your city building department how to obtain a list of qualified engineers. (See box.)
Building industry officials recommend that before you hire a contractor, you obtain the contractor's state license number and check with the stat Contractors Licensing Board in Sacramento at (916) 366-5153 to be sure the contractor is in good standing.
Local contractors' associations also provide information on licensed contractors who are available to do earthquake preparedness work on homes.
Here is a list of these associations in the Bay Area:
San Francisco Builder's Exchange: (415) 282-8220
Marin County Builder's Exchange: (415) 456-3233
Alameda Assn. General Contactors: (415) 483-1010
Contra Costa Builder's Exchange: (415) 685-8630
Peninsula Builder's Exchange: (415) 591-4486
Santa Clara Builder's Exchange: (408) 727-4000
Santa Cruz Builder's Exchange: (408) 476-3400
Structural rehabilitation of an older house may cost from several hundred to several thousand dollars. But that is only a fraction of the house's value, and it could be the best investment you ever make. Don't count on insurance to take care of all your problems. (See Appendix III.)
Is your home on a good site?
Is it on stable soil or rock? Is it out of the path of quake-induced floods from a collapsing dam or a tsunami (seismic tidal wave)? Is it clear of hazards like adjacent buildings, retaining walls, utility lines and towers, and water tanks?
Or is it on unstable, potentially dangerous site? Near a fault? On a hillside prone to landslides? On a creek bottom, an old flood plain, or landfill? In such locations, differential settlement of loose soils may cause structural damage in a quake. Saturated loose sands and silts may liquefy during a long, severe shake.
True, the notion of a good site is relative. Four of five Californians live within the state's most active seismic areas. But some sites are clearly better than others. A house firmly anchored on bedrock will probably withstand a quake much better than one on unstable landfill or alluvial soil.
What is your home's structure?
Buildings of unreinforced masonry, brick, or concrete fare poorly even in moderate quakes. If well braced and fixed on good foundations, wood-frame houses perform better than most other types. They are relatively lightweight and flexible and tend to give with the shocks and lateral stress. Most split-level houses and houses on stilts are more susceptible to structural damage than those which rest securely on a good, level foundation.
No one can guarantee how well a house will stand up to a big quake. But it will have a much better chance of surviving more or less intact if its basic parts---foundation, walls, floors, roof, and ceilings---are fastened together well.
Is your foundation in good repair?
If your foundation collapses during a quake, your house may be extensively damaged--perhaps beyond repair. Check visible parts of your houseÕs concrete foundation or footings for cracks. Consult an expert about necessary repairs.
Houses with brick foundations risk severe damage even in moderate quakes. Brick foundations should be capped with reinforced concrete or, much better, entirely replaced by new concrete foundations--a major job, but far less expensive than repairing or rebuilding a house whose foundation collapses.
|
(5) Bolting house to its foundation.
Bolting your house to its foundation may be the most important single step in protecting it against earthquake damage.
You may do it yourself or hire specialists. It may cost from several hundred to several thousand dollars, depending on the type of work and the accessibility of the foundation. But compared to the value of your home, the cost will be very small. Lateral bracing is crucial. A well-braced house will sway as a single unit instead of shaking or twisting apart. Exterior walls and roofs are usually braced with plywood sheathing nailed to the inside or outside of the wall studs and rafters. Cripple (short) walls in the basement also require lateral bracing with plywood sheathing, angled studs, or metal straps. Connections: To insure that the house moves as a unit, strengthen ties between walls, floors, and roof. Bolt or nail prefabricated metal connectors to studs, joists, beams, and rafters. Pay especial attention to connections between the main building and any additions.
|
||
|
Even
a good foundation wonÕt help if the house falls off it during a quake.
(6)
Long Spans: Strong headers and studs should adequately frame and support wide openings in the walls such as picture windows and French doors. Be sure that alterations to your home, like removing walls or installing larger windows, meet accepted standards. Weakly-framed spans can collapse in a strong quake. Garage door openings are especially susceptible to failure. (Keeping the garage door closed can help a bit to stiffen the span.)
Mobile homes often suffer quake damage when they fall off their supports. Leave the wheels on the coach so that it cannot fall far, or install structural bracing. Consult your mobile home ownersÕ association or dealer or look in the Yellow Pages. One more tip: make sure the awing is well supported and securely fastened to the coach.
Is the exterior of your home safe in case of an earthquake?
Roofs: Lightweight roofs with lateral bracing and good connections are best. Composition shingles are light and add fire protection. Tile roofs are heavier, and broken tiles falling off the roof are a hazard. If your house has a tile roof, make sure that the underlying structure can support the weight and that the tiles are unbroken and fastened securely to it.
Chimneys: Brick chimneys fail even in moderate quakes, posing a hazard to anyone or anything below, and sometimes damaging the roof. If there happens to be a fire in the fireplace and the bricks are hot when the chimney collapses, the house could catch fire.
Bracing or strapping the chimney may be necessary, especially if it is on an exterior wall and/or if it extends more than a few feet above the roof. If the roof around the chimney doesn't have solid plywood sheathing, install it to protect the house and its occupants from a collapsing chimney.
Better yet, consider replacing unsafe brick chimneys and fireplaces with prefabricated metal fireplaces and metal flues. These prefabricated units can be boxed and then, for appearance, shingled or finished with an imitation brick exterior where they extend above the roof.
Air conditioning and heating units: Rooftop or window installations should be well secured, or they may be shaken loose during a quake.
Exterior stairs, porches, and decks: All structures attached to the house, including their footings, supports, and lateral bracings, should be inspected and strengthened if necessary. Add metal connectors to prevent the structure from shaking or twisting apart. Look for rotted wood or termite damage that can weaken exterior structures.
Trees: Remove any trees or large branches likely to fall on your house in case of a quake.
(7)
Is the interior of your home safe in case of an earthquake?
Examine your house or apartment, room by room:
Imagine---If a big quake strikes:
Tall furniture and bookcases may tip over.
Cabinet doors may burst open, emptying dishes and other objects onto the floor. Lamps, TV sets, hanging plants, suspended light fixtures, and other household items may fall.
Toxic and flammable material in the kitchen or workshop may spill.
Appliances may "walk.
Rearrange things to minimize damage:
Secure bookcases and other top-heavy furniture to wall studs with metal L-brackets and/or lag screws.
Replace conventional cabinet door latches with safety latches that won't open in a quake. Keep heavy objects on low shelves. Secure hanging fixtures well.
Put toxic and flammable materials in spill-proof, crush-proof containers on low shelves, preferably in locked cabinets.
Remove or lock wheels or casters, if any, on refrigerator and other heavy appliances, or block them so they won't move. Brace your water heater by fastening it to wall studs with metal straps (after installing an insulating blanket around it to conserve energy).
Family Plan
Use the Family Plan Checklist (last page of brochure) to record emergency plans, phone numbers, and other essential information. Make copies for all family members.
Coordinated plans and procedures with neighbors in case of absence. Exchange normal and emergency phone numbers, house keys, information on utility shut-offs, etc.
Discuss earthquake and post-earthquake emergencies with your family, including what each person should do---whether at home or elsewhere---when the quake strikes. Practice emergency procedures. (See later sections on During the Quake and After the Quake.)
Plan how to get in touch with each other if some family members are away from home.
Phone lines should be reserved for calls about life-threatening emergencies---especially in the hours immediately after the quake. Make only essential calls, and keep them brief. Most lines will be out; those that work will likely be jammed. Pay telephones may still be working when home phones are out. It may be easier to call out of state than to place a local call. So your plan should include out-of-state numbers where you can leave emergency messages for each other.
Each family member should know where to go if it is impossible to return home. Everyone, including children, should carry ID cards and a list of alternative destinations, names, and phone numbers (including out-of-state numbers) to be used in case of separation from the family. Copies of the Family Plan could be given to the child's teacher and taped inside the child's lunch pail or notebook. The Family Plan should also include information about school and work evacuation plans. For example, how long after a quake will the school keep children there waiting for parents to pick them up? Where will the children be taken if the parents do not arrive?
Train family members when, where, and how to turn off utilities---gas, electrical, and water shut-offs. Teach each family member where the main gas shutoff is located, and leave a wrench in a handy spot nearby. Teach each family member how to turn off gas at each appliance and heater as well. In some cities, fire departments distribute free gas meter wrenches and water heater tie-downs along with free home fire safety inspections. Utility companies also provide free home inspections of your gas services.
(8)
Emergency Supplies
After a big quake many utilities and services will be out, and the authorities will be overwhelmed. Expect to be on your own for at least a few days, and possibly up to two weeks.
Gathering "survival stashes" in advance, and storing them where they will be accessible and undamaged after the quake, will make this time less trying. To be safe, plan to take care of your family for a minimum of two weeks without outside help or supplies. (For more on supplies, see After the Quake.)
Make sure you have a pair of hard-soled shoes, work gloves, and a flashlight and spare batteries handy both at home---perhaps under the bed---and at work. Immediately after a big quake, put on the shoes and gloves to protect yourself as you move about. Use the flashlight if electrical power is interrupted and if the quake occurs at night or when you are inside a portion of a building without natural light.
Fire Control
Preparation and practice can do a lot to lessen the risk of fire---a primary quake hazard. Draw up a plan for escaping from a fire in your home. List all rooms, doors, and windows, and designate save exits.
If you may need to escape from an upper story, provide folding ladders or rope or chain ladders. (Practice with them. Rope and chain ladders are difficult to use.) Never jump from an upper-story window. As a last resort, hang from a window and drop, but be sure it's into a safe place. Remove all hazards---garden stakes, rocks, etc---from the areas beneath windows that might be used as emergency exits.
Be sure gas lines are connected to appliances by flexible tubing (much less likely than rigid pipe to break). Prevent appliances from "walking."
Train family when and how to shut off gas at main valve and at each appliance and heater as well. (Details in After the Quake.)
Place several fire extinguishers in key spots (some outside the house) where they will be easily accessible after the quake. Teach family members how to use them. (See After the quake.) Powder-type ABC extinguishers are good for all sorts of fires. Maintenance: Every two or three months, check to be sure extinguishers are full. Turn them upside down and rap the bottom with a rubber mallet or a board to keep the powder from caking.
Clear away combustibles (dry grass, weeds, firewood, scrap lumber, flammable chemicals) from the outside of the house, garage, sheds, fences, etc. Get rid of unnecessary combustibles inside the house or garage. Make sure nothing flammable is near the has heater or water heater.
Water
Store a supply of tap water or purified water in unbreakable airtight containers. Minimum 15 gallons per person. More would be better. Each person requires one gallon of drinking water per day. Store water away from light (in opaque, not transparent, containers) in protected area which will not collapse and which will be accessible after the quake. Old bleach (Clorox) bottles are useful. Change the water for a fresh supply every three months. Water the garden with the old supply.
Wrap (to prevent breakage) and store several bottles of chemical water purifier (tincture of iodine, iodine crystals, etc.). Include eye droppers for measuring. (Details in After the Quake.)
Other Supplies:
¤ Funnel, extra cups or canteens, collapsible plastic water jugs, etc.
¤ Buckets for catching rain water (for example, from roof downspouts) and for carrying water. Line buckets with plastic bags if they leak or are dirty.
¤ Pot for boiling water, strainer and/or cheesecloth to filter it.
(9)
Food and Cooking Supplies
¤ Shovel. A pick could also be handy.
¤ Matches in waterproof container.
¤ Charcoal (20 lbs. per person), charcoal lighter, and/or
¤ Camp stove and fuel, and/or
¤ Grill or fire pit.
¤ You can improvise a fire pit by digging a hole, lining it with aluminum foil, and cooking on an oven grate.
¤ Don't cook food directly on a rack taken from the refrigerator (harmful effects from the metal). Such racks are all right for heating up pots and pans.
¤ Large pots and pans with lids. Double boiler to cook quickly and save fuel.
¤ Metal coffee pot.
¤ Two pairs adjustable (channel-lock) pliers. Very useful for handling hot items.
¤ Oven mitts, hot pads.
¤ Can Opener.
¤ Aluminum foil.
¤ Heavy-duty 30-gallon plastic garbage bags and twist ties (minimum several dozen). Smaller plastic bags would also be useful.
¤ Plenty of paper towels and/or napkins, paper plates, plastic utensils.
¤ Canned food. Minimum three cans of food per person per day. To be safe, store 40 to 50 cans per person. Examples: stews, hearty soups, sardines, tuna, vegetables. Include foods that can be eaten cold. Fruit juices would be welcome if you have room.
¤ Multi-vitamins, dietary supplements.
¤ Coffee, tea, cocoa, powdered milk, powdered juice mix, etc. Remember, water may be in short supply.
¤ Ball-point pen and stick-on labels (and/or note paper and tape).
Sanitation
¤ Soap. Best is an antibacterial liquid surgical scrub like Betadine, which can be found in pharmacies. Hexachlorophene soaps are not recommended because they can be dangerous to infants and small children. It would also be a good idea to have a supply of alcohol-based, waterless hand-cleaning gel (Pro Care) and alcohol-impregnated tissues (Handi-Wipes) in case water is extremely scarce after the quake.
¤ Temporary hand wash. Best is a hanging plastic bag (Sun Shower) with hose, nozzle, and shut-off valve. You can also use a garden sprinkler or a can with a pouring spout. Or improvise a hand wash with an old bleach bottle: punch holes in the cap and pour through the cap, or punch a few small holes about on the side of the bottle about an inch above the bottom: when you unscrew the cap, water will run through the holes, and it will stop when you screw the cap back on.
¤ Small bucket or other container, with lid (for urine).
¤ Medium bucket or other container, with lid (for feces).
¤ Detached toilet seat.
¤ Heavy-duty plastic garbage bags, twist ties. Minimum several dozen (in addition to those for kitchen garbage, etc.). Don't skimp.
¤ Toilet paper (2 rolls per person per week).
¤ Clorox II powder or powdered agricultural lime (minimum 5--10 lbs.)
¤ Shovel or spade for digging latrine. Pick for hard ground.
¤ for dealing with human waste, see After the Quake.
(10)
Shelter
¤ One roll (200 feet) of 5 mil plastic sheeting.
¤ Clothesline, rope, strong cord.
¤ Shovel, pick, crowbar, axe, hammer, nails, saw, staple gun.
¤ Adjustable (crescent) wrench to be left by main gas valve for emergency shutoff. It would be handy to have another one.
¤ Some of the tools (especially the crowbar) could be useful in rescues from damaged buildings.
¤ Dripless candles, matches in waterproof container.
¤ Flashlights, small AM or AM-FM radio, extra bulbs and batteries. Cheap disposable flashlights can be stocked in emergency supplies. Once a year, replace them with new ones and take the old ones for everyday use.
¤ Extra shelter and sleeping gear. Ground cloths, tarps, tents, sleeping bags, inflatable mattresses or foam pads, etc. Several small, inexpensive packaged "tube tents" could come in handy.
First Aid
¤ Keep a home first aid kit where it will be accessible after a quake, preferably in a strong, water-tight, fireproof container. Use zip-lock plastic bags to organize and protect contents.
¤ Keep a good first-aid manual with the kit. Refer to it for details on supplies.
¤ Include basics for minor wounds: small bandages, tape, anti-bacterial soap, alcohol, etc. If possible, add supplies for more serious injuries: large dressings, bandage rolls, sling, splint, etc.
Workplace
¤ Keep a small pack of personal emergency supplies and clothing at work, in case you cannot reach your home or your car.
¤ If possible, keep an old bicycle there as well. It may be the best means of transportation after the quake.
¤ If you don't work on the ground floor, a length of strong rope might come in handy in case of stairway collapse.
¤ Administrators of businesses and other workplaces should also consider keeping emergency equipment and supplies on the premises.
Clothing
¤ Shoes with heavy soles.
¤ Work gloves
¤ Warm clothing, including sweaters, overcoats, rain gear, caps, and gloves.
¤ Spare eyeglasses or contact lenses.
¤ Store emergency clothing in extra suitcases, duffels, or backpacks in a dry place that will be accessible after the quake.
Car
¤ Keep a minimal stash of clothing and emergency supplies in your car. An all-around car stash would also include battery jumper cables, a tow rope, and a small tool kit.:
¤ Shoes with heavy soles and work gloves.
¤ Clothing for rain and cold weather.
¤ Flashlight, spare batteries, matches, small first-aid kit.
¤ Full canteen, water purification drops or tablets, possible bottled water or juice.
¤ Spare eyeglasses or contact lenses.
¤ Note paper, ball-point pen, tape.
(11)
Planning for the Disabled
In addition to the precautions that everyone should take, disabled persons have a few other things to think about.
Most important, designate in advance someone who can help you---a family member, a neighbor, a co-worker---should you require assistance after the quake strikes.
Be sure to have within easy reach, both at home and at work, a flashlight and extra batteries. A flashlight could be crucial in calling for help, especially if you are speech- and/or hearing-impaired. (If you are speech-impaired, a pencil and notepad could also come in handy.) A small battery-powered AM/FM radio might also be useful.
Stock up extra medication and medical supplies that you might need, both at home and at work.
If you depend on electrical power for life support, you should have an emergency generator.
Plan you emergency evacuation routes from home and workplace. Remember that hallways and doorways may be obstructed, and wheelchairs may not be able to pass.
If your vision is impaired, have an extra cane handy both at home and at work, even if you have a seeing-eye dog. The dog may be injured or too frightened to help after a big quake.
When the quake strikes, take cover---if possible, under a desk or sturdy table; if not, in a doorway. If you are in a wheelchair, lock the wheels. Shield your head with a cushion or with your arms.
Proceed cautiously in your evacuation after the quake. Beware of aftershocks.
Town and City Planning for the Emergency
Ask local officials whether your community as a plan for dealing with the emergency. It's important that official planners consider the following questions and provide the answers to the public:
1. How many people live here? How many work out of town? How many live elsewhere but come to work here? What is the approximate total number of people who would be here if the quake struck in the middle of a working day; during morning or evening rush hour; at night; on a weekend or holiday?
2. Will key city employees who live elsewhere, especially fire and police personnel, be able to return to their posts after a quake? Or should your community establish mutual aid agreements with other towns for these people to report to the jurisdictions where they live if they can't return to their normal stations?
3. Is your town or city storing adequate medical supplies where they will be accessible after an earthquake? Have emergency aid stations been designated and staffed?
4. Where should the badly injured be taken? The lightly injured? The dead?
5. Where will the emergency message and information centers be located?
6. Where can emergency water supplies be obtained? How can they be distributed?
7. How and where will those whose homes are totally destroyed, or who can't get back home, be sheltered and fed?
8. How will emergency sanitation problems be handled? (Human waste, garbage, etc.)
9. Where should able-bodied citizens report for voluntary emergency duty?
10. How will public information be broadcast? Which radio stations?
11. How will public order be preserved, looting prevented, etc.?
(12)
During the Quake
Survival Response
There's a joke about an earthquake striking while some American tourists are visiting a Tokyo museum. Screams, shrieks, terrified pleas. Above the din a voice is heard shouting, "I'm from California! We stand in the doorway!" Then some else calls, "I'm from Illinois---what should I do?"
The real thing won't be funny. What should you do if you're at home? In a car? In a high-rise building? Walking downtown? For the answers, see below.
Make sure everyone in your family understands what to do when the quake strikes, no matter where they are. Acquaint everyone with hazards in and around the home. Decide on the best places to take cover in various locations in and around the house, as well as in other places frequented by family members: work, school, shopping, etc.
When The Quake Strikes
Stay where you are. Most quake injuries occur as people enter or leave buildings. The greatest danger is from falling objects just outside exterior doorways and walls.
If you're inside, stay inside and take the best available cover.
¤ Get under a sturdy table or desk.
¤ Stand or crouch in a strong doorway in a load-bearing wall, not a partition wall.
¤ Brace yourself in an inside corner of the room.
¤ If possible, shield your head with a coat, cushion or blanket.
¤ Stay away from windows, mirrors, or other glass that might shatter.
¤ Avoid chandeliers and other heavy hanging objects that might fall.
¤ Keep clear of bookcases, cabinets, and other pieces of heavy furniture that might topple or spill their contents.
¤ Stay away from stoves, heating units, fireplaces, and any area where bricks might fall from the chimney.
If you were asleep, take a few moments to get oriented. Make sure you know what's happening.
If you're outside, find shelter outdoors---unless you're lucky enough to be in an open space where nothing can fall on you.
¤ Be sure to stay clear of power lines and poles, trees or branches, external stairs, building facade ornaments, chimneys, or anything that might fall.
If you're downtown, hazards increase---especially in areas of high-rise buildings. Windows and building facades can shower the streets with deadly litter. Get under a strong doorway or crawl under a parked vehicle (the bigger, the better).
If you're in a high-rise building, don't try to use the elevators or the stairs during the quake. Even after the quake, be very wary of stairs which may have been weakened by the shaking.
(13)
After The Quake
Handling Emergencies and Living through the Aftermath
Don't think your problems will be all over if you survive the quake itself.
Communicating with the outside world, or getting help may be difficult or impossible. You should be prepared to survive on your own for two weeks or more.
Immediately afterward, assuming you're lucky enough not to be a casualty, you may well have one or more immediate emergencies to deal with.
¤ People around you may be injured.
¤ Fires may break out and there may be no water to fight them.
¤ You may be trapped in a building with unsafe elevators and stairwells.
Immediately After the Quake
Put on shoes with heavy soles. Wear gloves.
Beware of aftershocks. When the quake subsides, don't blindly run out. More shocks may be on the way---perhaps bigger than the first, perhaps smaller.
Beware of weakened structures. Aftershocks may trigger landslides or collapse weakened buildings, walkways, roadways, bridges, and overpasses. Avoid elevators and be very wary of stairways, which may have been damaged. Be very careful where you walk, ride, or drive. Proceed carefully, looking for possible shelters or escapes as you go.
Check for injured or trapped persons in your building and neighboring buildings. Mark known hazards like weakened structures. (Note: Before the quake, coordinate plans and procedures with neighbors in case of absence. Don't enter another person's property without good reason.)
Check for fires and gas leaks from ruptured lines or connections.
Open windows and doors for ventilation if you smell gas.
Turn off stove and/or heater if on.
Don't light a match or turn on any gas appliance until you're sure the gas lines haven't been ruptured. If that means waiting until someone knowledgeable can check them, wait.
If you smell gas or have other reason to think the lines have been damaged, turn off the gas as soon as possible. (See illustration.) Don't turn the gas back on yourself; wait until your local utility confirms that it is safe and sends someone to turn on the gas and relight the pilot lights.
If you have reason to believe the electrical lines have been broken or power is out, don't turn on electric switches. Unplug appliances. (Fuses or circuit breakers should automatically shut off electricity if there is trouble on the circuit.) Be especially careful if you smell gas. Don't attempt to shut off your house's electricity or even unplug appliances if you can smell gas. One spark could set off a fire.
(14)
Extinguish fires.
Before the quake, place fire extinguishers in strategic locations (including some outside the house) where they will be easily accessible after the quake. Remember, water will probably not be available.
Before using a fire extinguisher, be sure you have a safe exit in case the fire gets out of control.
Use the proper extinguisher for the type of fire:
¤ Cass A for normal combustibles (wood, paper, cloth).
¤ Class B for flammable liquids and most electric fires.
¤ Class C for electric fires. In most cases you should shut off electricity before attempting to extinguish the fire.
¤ ABC fire extinguishers are good for all types of fires.
Aim the extinguisher at the base of the fire. Sweep the nozzle from side to side and slightly raise the stream as you sweep. Don't start at the top of the fire and work down.
Use a garden hose (assuming water is available) only if the fire is small.